Sydney is surrounded by natural beauty, with national parks to the north, south, and west. But the star of this story is the Royal National Park, or the “Nasho” as us Aussies affectionately call it, nestled to the south of the city. It’s more than just any park; it’s Australia’s oldest national park, and the second oldest in the world, right after Yellowstone in the USA.
Royal National Park has a rich history, established way back on 26 April 1879. Originally just known as National Park, it got its ‘Royal’ prefix after Queen Elizabeth II visited in 1954. Spanning 61.77 square miles or 160 square kilometers, it’s a vast, breathtaking area where I spent my childhood, teen years, and even early adulthood exploring and creating memories.
Located about an hour south of Sydney, on the southern side of the Georges River, it’s super accessible for a day trip or a weekend adventure. For anyone looking to experience the wild beauty of Australia’s natural landscape, this is the place to be.
It’s not just about grand vistas and scenic views. The Royal National Park offers diverse trails, from easy walks to challenging hikes. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just starting out, there’s something for everyone. Be sure to check out the famous Coast Track, the Figure 8 pools, Wedding Cake Rock and Karloo walking track . The wildlife here is also spectacular, with a variety of birds, reptiles, and even wallabies or echidnas making appearances along the trails.
As someone who grew up roaming these trails, as well as boating and picnicing, I’ve learned that every corner of this park holds a unique story. From the ancient rock formations to the hidden waterfalls, the Royal National Park isn’t just a hiking destination; it’s a living, breathing, historical wonder waiting to be explored.
Hiking in The Royal National Park – Stanwell Park to Waterfall
- When: 22 August 2024
- Where: Royal National Park. Starting at Stanwell Park train station and finishing at Waterfall train station.
- Weather: Overcast in the morning but clearing in the afternoon to a warm Sydney winter’s day with a low of 59 F (15 C) and a high of 73.4 F (23 C)
- Departure: From Stanwell Park train station at 9:24 am and arrived back at Waterfall train station at 4:24 pm
- Length: 12 miles, 20.4 km
- Elevation gain: 2198 ft, 670 m
- Duration: 7 hours, including breaks
The Start
We were a group of 17 on this overcast and very mild winter’s day. Our hike started with a 20 minute road walk until we reached the fire trail where we entered the park. Shortly after entering the park we encountered our first climb which was a 15 minute stepped climb up to Bald Hill with sweeping views of Stanwell Park Beach. Bald Hill is a famous hang gliding spot but not this day as there wasn’t a breath of wind. We enjoyed these spectactular views as we ate our morning tea, took a few group photos then headed off on the remainder of the hike.
The Royal Coast Track
After a short undulating bush track and another stretch of road walking we entered the Royal Coast Track, with early spring flowers blooming and tall Gymea Lilies scattered along the trail. These spectacular native Australian plants go by many names; Giant Lily, Flame Lily, Spear Lily, Illawarra Lily and Gymea Lily. They are found along the New South Wales central coast. Their stalks grow to 2 – 4 m or 6 – 13.5 feet high and are topped with large, compact heads of nectar filled red flowers.
Lunch at Garawarra Farm
We continued onto the Garawarra ridge trail and into the Garawarra State Conservation area which boarders the National Park and was gazetted a conservation area in 1987 and then added to the Australian National Heritage List, along with the Nasho on 15 September 2006. This area features heathland, eucalyptus forests, subtropical rainforest and wildflowers. It’s not uncommon to see Lyrebird and Echidna in here. We enjoyed our lunch at Garawarra Farm which is basically a carpark for hikers starting the many hikes that leave from this spot.
The Descent to Afternoon Tea
After lunch we contiued along another fire trail until we eventually branched off onto the very faint Bola Heights Trail and started our descent. The heavy dry leaf cover along with the steep climb down required careful foot placement to ensure a safe and injury free descent. Before we knew it were scrambling over large boulders and amazingly growing out of the rocks were the most perfect Platycerium: commonly called Staghorn or Elkhorn Ferns. There are 18 species of these ferns, four of which occur in eastern Australia. We continued on to reach Sir Bertram Stevens Drive which we crossed and stopped for afternoon tea.
The Final Leg
With afternoon tea enjoyed and finished we continued along the road for a short distance where we crossed the Hacking River by bridge and then found our path back into the bush. We encountered a few easy creek crossings, one of which was Waterfall Creek. The climate here was dramatically different as we felt the air temperature drop. It was as though we had entered a dark cool world. From here it was a steepish climb up an extremely rocky track. The rocks were smallish so wobbled under foot, requiring care.
The Race to the Station
Our track led us to a large fire trial and planted in front of us was the sign: 1 km to Waterfall train station. Checking the train times, this was our cue to bolt or miss the train. I jumped on the train, with the doors closing behind me.
This walk saw a variety trail conditions: from steps, undulating fire trails, slippery descents, scrambles over boulders and a steep rocky climb. We also sensed that spring was close with colorful wild flowers making their inaugural appearance for the season.
The highlight for me was the variety of trail conditions and the sense that spring is upon us. spring hiking is my favourite. Happy hiking!
If you enjoyed this read, please drop a line and of course I’m happy to answer any questions. Happy Hiking!